It might seem like cutting your lawn shorter would mean mowing less often. But in reality, it can backfire.

Here’s why:

• Scalping stresses the grass. Cutting too short removes too much leaf surface, which the grass needs for photosynthesis.

• Weeds move in. Short grass lets sunlight hit the soil, encouraging weed seeds to germinate.

• It grows back faster. Grass often responds to stress by trying to recover quickly, so you might actually end up mowing more often.

• Shallow roots. Regularly cutting too short weakens the root system, making the lawn less drought-tolerant and more prone to disease.

The best approach is to follow the “one-third rule”: never remove more than one-third of the grass height at a time.

For centipede grass, overseeding isn’t the best way to thicken it. and in most cases, it’s not recommended at all.

Here’s why:

• Centipede doesn’t spread from seed easily. It mainly thickens by above-ground runners (stolons), not by germinating new seed like cool-season grasses do.

• Seed germination is slow and unreliable. Centipede seed has a very tough hull, takes weeks to sprout, and needs warm soil and consistent moisture to establish. Conditions that are hard to maintain once the lawn is already grown in.

• Overseeding often causes patchy, uneven growth. The new seedlings rarely match the existing turf’s maturity or density.

• Seeding can introduce weeds. Many commercial grass seeds carry weed seeds, and even small bare areas can allow weed growth to compete with your existing lawn.

Better ways to thicken centipede:

• Don’t scalp it. Cutting too short removes most of the leaf blade, which stresses the grass and slows stolon growth. Keeping enough leaf tissue lets the grass photosynthesize efficiently, recover faster, and spread to fill thin areas.

• Feed lightly. Centipede is sensitive to too much nitrogen; use a low-nitrogen fertilizer (like 15-0-15 or 16-4-8) once or twice a year.

• Topdress and aerate. Light topdressing with sand or compost and annual aeration can help stolons spread and fill thin areas.

• Patch with plugs or sod. For bare spots, use small plugs or strips of centipede sod instead of seed. They’ll root and spread much faster.

Most lawns in Richmond Hill are made up of warm-season grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, and Centipede. These grasses thrive in our heat and coastal climate but require proper mowing height, watering, and seasonal care to stay healthy and resist weeds and disease.

High heat, humidity, and frequent rain can stress lawns and create the perfect conditions for fungal issues, weeds, and thinning turf. Without proactive treatments and proper maintenance, lawns can decline quickly during Coastal Georgia summers.

In Richmond Hill, lawn treatments are most effective when they begin in late winter or early spring before weeds emerge. Starting early helps prevent weed breakthrough, strengthens turf, and sets the lawn up for healthier growth throughout the year.

Pine straw is a popular choice in Richmond Hill because it allows water to flow easily, breaks down naturally, and fits well with our local landscape style. Mulch can also be effective, but choosing the right material and depth is key to preventing moisture issues and weed growth.

During peak growing months, most lawns in Richmond Hill need to be mowed weekly to maintain healthy growth and avoid stressing the grass. Consistent mowing at the proper height helps prevent weeds, supports root strength, and keeps lawns looking clean and well cared for.

Many lawn issues, such as weeds, fungus, and thinning grass, are easier and more affordable to prevent than to fix. Proactive care helps protect your lawn before problems appear, leading to healthier turf and more consistent results over time.

No. Corona Lawns proudly services Richmond Hill, GA. but will service towns and areas just outside, or in Bryan County. By focusing on our local community, we’re able to provide consistent scheduling, responsive communication, and a deeper understanding of the unique lawn challenges in our area.